Dali: A Marbleous City

After spending the previous night in Kunming, we caught a late-morning bullet train to Dali. The installation of this high-speed train last year cut the travel time between the two cities by a staggering 9 hours– it took a mere 2 hours to arrive. Our guide from the Linden Center in Xizhou, Jiajia, greeted us at the Dali station and led us by bus to the iconic gate of Dali Old Town.

Entrance to Dali Old Town

The sudden change of elevation and the food from the previous night launched a powerful attack on me, but it was nothing an Imodium couldn’t handle… for now. We then had our first culinary taste of Yunnan on the second floor of a restaurant that overlooked the plateau of single-story buildings with tiled roofs and white plastered walls.

Alex feeling the sudden wrath of an unwashed Rambutan

The roofs are laced with intricate patterns that feature mystical creatures that represent old tales that are almost believable because of how mystically beautiful the town is; it seemed as if some sort of sleepy curse was cast upon the grey buildings, the animals, the water, and even the trees. Or maybe I was just delirious from the high elevation (6,500ft.)  Dali is also renowned globally for its marble, with designs so abstract that even the Spanish Dali had nuthin’ on.

Jiajia gave a brief introduction on the Linden Center, run by an eccentric American named Brian, and its efforts to work in tandem with the Chinese government to preserve the local culture and architecture of the region, as well as the Erhai lake from the increased pollution that resulted from the recent increase in tourism.

Crowded streets of Dali

As we strolled down the rain-washed, slanted roads of Dali Old Town, oft-times I caught an unpleasant whiff and wondered if it came from nearby durian or from one of us with 拉肚子 (traveller’s diarrhea.)

Crowded Streets of Dali pt. 2

It was only day two in Yunnan province, and unfortunately I spent most of my time rushing in and out of the various McDonalds toilets of Dali, mastering the art of the squat. Jiajia guided us through the crowded streets lined with charming Yunnan snack and trinket shops.

We were given a few hours of free-time to explore the shops and to practice our Chinese with the locals by asking them about their thoughts on the Erhai lake preservation efforts. Turns out that the latter was a hard task for two reasons:
1. Because most people were also tourists

2. All the McDonald’s toilets only had one stall so I didn’t really have any chance to communicate with the locals…

Catholic Church

We stopped for pictures at a Dali-style Catholic Church, erected in the 1930’s by a French missionary. Jiajia explained that in recent decades, the Chinese government became more and more tolerant of Christianity. However, very recently it has started to re-associated Christianity with subversive Western values and has cracked down on Christian institutions.

Dog hit by the sleepy curse of Dali








By the end of the day, it felt as if that spell had also been cast upon all of us, as we were really looking forward to kickin’ it back at the Linden Center. It was truly a marbleous day.